I decamped this morning and headed for a couple of days in the La Rioja wine region.
I skipped the short route via toll expressway, and instead traveled over the mountains to the farm lands to the south of Cantabria, leaving the misty climate for the sunny, rolling hills country.
The route took the N623 south over the mountains then cut off to the N232 headed east. The N232 crosses and parallels the Rio Ebro, and after cutting a deep gorge, the Ebro opens into a beautiful agricultural valley similar to California's central valley. In the Val de Ebro, the pear trees are in full bloom.
Emptying into the Ebro is the Rio Oca. The Oca cuts a deep gorge south to north and the gorge is criss-crossed with some spectacular hiking paths.
After the Oca is the farm land of rolling hills and endless fields. Then La Rioja, named for a river that waters the area. About 100 meters after the Welcome sign you see the first vineyards. Now the grape vines are about 2 feet high and wound through wire which will soon support this years foliage and fruit.
It does take long to start seeing the Bodegas, or vineyards. Red wine is king here, Temparnillo grapes are close cousins to the Cabernet.
I've settle into a Paradore in the city of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Domingo was a 10th Century hermit who built bridges, roads and hostels for the Pilgrims headed for Compostela, the reported resting place of James, friend of Jesus. This is one of the oldest and most famous pilgrimages in Christendom, and draws thousands of pilgrims, or Peregrinos, every year. Santo Domingo is packed with Peregrinos from all over the world. Veteran Peregrinos have assured me that this is not about the religious goals, but is completely about the journey. One Spanish friend of mine makes a one week walk each year covering a different section of the route which begins in southern France and ends in Compostela in western Spain.
But my journey here is all about the bodegas. And tomorrow I will start a tour of the vineyards and worship at the alter of Temparnillo.
Signing off now. More later.